Slim -

When did you get your first surfboard?
Age 8yrs.

What was your first board?
Backyard board.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?

What do you love about surfing?
Freedom just 1 on 1.

What is your favourite board?
6'2" swallow tail for fun, 7'6" pin tail when it's on.

Your favourite surfspot?
The best wave I've surfed consistently in the World would be KIRRA before they fucked it.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
My Dad.

Who/what inspires you?
People who have common sense inspire me, it's far from common these days.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
I wish I would not have said no to Dick Hoole when he was making Tubular swells and asked if I would like to come along with him as a young surfer. I was working and surfing for Peter McCabe at the time aged 18.

What are you most proud of?
I have a lot of things I'm proud of, No1 are my two children (Wayan Ray & Made Amanda). I'm still proud of the fact I moved to Indonesia 18yrs ago with 3 grand in my pocket. I then purchased an out board motor and a motor bike and with no change left from the 3K I'm still here today running my own operation, yes sir, I did it my way.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing is still pretty sacred to me even though it has changed so much..... I started surfing before legropes were invented. We used to be kinda like outlaws in our own way. Pro surfing and the pretty / goody boy image have changed that. Surf shops used to actually only sell surf boards!

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Simple things can make me happy.

What’s your favorite meal?
Grilling spanish makerel at home and my wife's fish soup or roast pork, crumbed lamb cutlets, pizza etc etc etc.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
No ipod.......... but it's classic rock, punk, power pop. No trance, no hip hop or any of that other like wise crap.

What are you most grateful for?
Waking up each day, my families good health.

What was life like growing up?
Growing up, well it was tough at first with my Dad being a returned World War 2 Veteran and me around the age of 12 already having long blond hair and just wanting to surf. By age 15 I was asked to move out from home and do my own thing. From there on my path was in front of me, a life at the beach for ever.

What sort of education have you had?
Left school at age 15.

What was your very first job?
Assembling rabbit traps (lasted 3 weeks).

What is your current job and what does it entail?
Chief of operations at (The original Bali surf report website since 1999) / too much !!!

How did you get into the position you are today?
Right place at the right time, that's life.

What do you like most about your job?
Going to the beach everyday :)

Where can we find you online?


Posted by: Troy Roennfeldt, on May 12, 2013
Categories: Interviews